Dominating the eastern side of the island, Haleakalā (House of the Sun) Crater is the focal point of Upcountry Maui. These fertile volcanic slopes are home to a wide array of farms and ranches, not to mention a multitude of activities and tasting adventures. Follow me on a virtual taste quest through Upcountry Maui and get ready to plan your own fulfilling road trip.
My day begins on Kula Highway (Rt. 37), heading to the plantation village of Keokea. The misty morning has primed me for breakfast at a famous road stop, Grandma’s Coffee House. Al Franco established the coffee shop 28 years ago as a tribute to his grandma, who picked wild coffee from the mountain slopes and grew it in her backyard. The hand-roasted cup of Maui beans is a perfect complement to my Keokea Omelet with farm-fresh tomatoes, basil, garlic and creamy Feta cheese crumbles. Grandma’s ambiance feels like coming home, whether you dine in the paneled storefront room or out on the covered patio.
I drive south from there, along the winding road that encircles the southeast side of Upcountry, to the rolling hills and bucolic views of ‘Ulupalakua Ranch. Maui’s Winery is a shining example of sustainability for this cattle ranch. The vineyards thrive at 1800 feet in volcanic soil and produce eight varieties of wine, including two types made with Maui Gold pineapples that come in from the field. The “King’s Cottage” Tasting Room is open daily with free wine tasting of the varietals available. A free, guided walking tour happens twice a day.
Back on Kula Highway I head downhill into the drier country. My next stop is the popular Surfing Goat Dairy on Omaopio Road. Look for the white fencing and driveway lined with old surfboards. There are 103 goats of all sizes and colors in this family-run dairy. It’s part petting/feeding zoo, part educational tours and part cheese factory.
Next door is Ocean Vodka Organic Farm and Distillery. The grounds, featuring a visitor center, organic farm and craft distillery, were established in 2013 but the best-selling organic vodka has been on the market since 2005. As my guide escorts me through carefully tended sugar cane fields, pointing out the colorful varieties of Hawaiian cane, and manicured gardens around the distillery, we delve into the topics of land and water conservation, biodynamic farming and green manufacturing. The tour ends in the Martini Garden by picking fresh garnishes for a martini tasting served with vodka-goat cheese truffles.
Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm on Waipoli Road in Upper Kula is my next destination. This scenic spot is a perfect place for rejuvenation with its fields full of color and aromatic scents. The thriving farm, product line and gift shop include an array of daily tours that attract adventurers, seniors and families. A Lavender Treasure Hunt in the Secret Garden is complimentary and a lot of fun. You can extend the sensory experience by ordering a Gourmet Picnic Lunch that comes with a lavender-infused dessert.
As the sun gets lower on the horizon, highlighting the clouds with a pastel palette, Kula Lodge & Restaurant come into view. The restaurant is open from morning to night. I decide to relax on the Garden Terrace perched on the mountainside so I can soak up the panoramic views and order dinner. Afterward, I browse the Kula Marketplace next door. It’s a gourmet general store that highlights Maui’s culinary and artistic treasures … a perfect metaphor for this quest.
